Wednesday, 18 April 2012

Packed with useful and interesting information


Review of The Russian Officer Corps in the Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars, 1792-1815 by Alexander Mikaberdize
This book is packed with useful information from the introduction to the end.


Mikaberidze’s somewhat patriotic introduction sets the scene, describing the importance of the Russian army in the period of the Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars and noting some of the better-known officers who served and, in some cases, “paid the ultimate price for the well-being of Russia”. The author’s note prior to the start of the book proper discusses the Russian habit of “numbering” their officers. Mikaberidze points out that this was due to the large number of officers with the same last name, an interesting piece of information that I had not considered previously. I found it particularly interesting, and somewhat strange, given the Russian habit of referring to people by their ‘son of’ (-ich) middle name—no doubt the need for brevity lead to the numbering system!

A 66-page history of the Russian officer corps precedes the main, biographical section of the book. In this section Mikaberidze discusses the origins of the Russian officer corps (which began with the reforms of Peter the Great), the level of education, social composition, ranks and military orders. As a mild “arithmomaniac” I particularly enjoyed Mikaberidze’s inclusion of numerous tables and graphs in this section. These, along with the line drawings of the decorations associated with the various military orders, add greatly to the look and content. The tables and graphs are packed with information; for example the age of officers at enlistment, which ranged from 2 years of age(!) to 36 and was a reflection of the nobles’ habit of enlisting their children in guard units to accelerate their promotion!
The bulk of the book, 480 pages, is dedicated to the A to Z of Russian officers of the Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars. There are, according to Mikaberdize’s introduction, “more than 800 biographies”, ranging from one or two paragraphs for the ‘lesser’ officers, to a single column or both columns of a page for ‘mid-range’ commanders, and up to two pages for officers who featured in numerous campaigns and/or held high command—the likes of Peter Ivanovich Bagration, Leontii Leontievich Benningsen or Mikhail Illarionovich Golenischev-Kutusov.
Each biography includes the usual, expected but critical information of dates of birth and death, details of military service and particular achievements or incidents and concludes with awards and orders received. Entries for the more significant generals also include a summary and concluding assessment of the officer’s worth; or otherwise! More than half of the biographies are accompanied by a well-produced portrait of the officer. As would be expected in such a publication, the writing is straight forward and factual. There are a few typos and grammatical errors, such as missing articles, incorrect tense and the odd spelling error, e.g. “loosing two thirds of his troops”, but none of those that I found related to more important information such as names, dates, places or ‘facts’. Overall I found this section to be complete, sufficiently detailed and, like any encyclopaedic dictionary, the sort of work to be browsed through or used to check a specific entry.
The book ends with a detailed bibliography of archival, primary and secondary sources. These included sources in English, German, French and Russian. The latter are written using the latin alphabet, with an English translation. Whilst not of interest to every reader, this provides a great pointer for further study for the keen student, researcher or enthusiast.
This is a landmark work, a fine reference source and one that we will be ‘dipping’ into regularly as we plan games involving Russian forces and their leaders. As Donald Horward states in his foreword, “readers interested in the Russian army during the Napoleonic period now have a valuable research tool available”. I could not agree more.

Tuesday, 17 April 2012

Wargaming Borodino 2012 (1)


As I have said often on this blog (perhaps ad nauseum?), we are focussing our current wargaming efforts on the 'bicentennial years'. Our big project for this year is a game based on Borodino, which is scheduled for early September. We'll do the game at a figure scale of about 1:50, using 1/72nd figures on a 4.8 m x 2 m table. Naturally we’ll be using our favoured Shako ANF rules; these are the Shako rules with selected parts of Shako II plus our edits and some of our own rules thrown in.
It's gonna be a BIG game. Based on the army lists we have put together, we are going to have:
French-Allied: 1 782 infantry figures, 492 cavalry figures, 29 model guns & crew,
Russian: 1 962 infantry figures , 588 cavalry cavalry, 31 model guns & crew.
We are busily painting extra units and gathering items for the terrain. First cab off the rank for me is more French-Allied heavy cavalry. Now THAT is what I call a lovely “chore” to have; a labour of love! Here they are prepared ready for undercoating.
Three of the six French-Allied heavy cavalry regiments awaiting undercoating and painting. The Italeri carabinier will become the 1st Westphalian cuirassiers while the Legio cuirassiers will be the 14th cuirassiers and 14th Polish cuirassiers
Hopefully they will be nearly as inspiring as these beauties when I have finished!
Is this everyone's favourite painting of the period? Les Cuirassiers de 1805, Avant le Combat by Jean-Louis-Ernest Meissonier (Wikipedia Commons)

Friday, 13 April 2012

100 Napoleonic Sets By 2015


On 8th April, a thread was started on Hat’s forum under the title “100 Napoleonic Sets for 2015”. It has generated a lot of discussion about the seriousness or otherwise of the original post, if it is ‘fair’ to have one period produced über alles, if it is possible to find 100 sets to produce, what the 100 sets should be, if anyone could buy 100 sets in a year and the like. No-one has yet bitten the bullet and made a list, so it is clearly our civil duty to do so!
Below are 100 Napoleonic sets. This list only includes sets that are currently not produced by any manufacturer and/or not available and/or not adequately covered. They have been listed by the nations in priority order according to the frequency of involvement in the Napoleonic Wars.
I was only half-way through the Russians when I reached 100, so the list does not include Prussians, British, Spanish, Portuguese, Swedish, Danish, Ottomans, Americans or others. So, Napoleonic figures really are a near bottomless pit!
Which of your favourites (not currently available in 1/72nd) have I missed?!

No particular nationality
1
Civilians and waggoners
2
Battlefield pillagers
France and allied
3
A box of Napoleons (e.g. Republican general, First Consul, Emperor, undress uniform, greatcoat, mounted, standing, seated, foot on drum, kissing flag at Fontainebleau, walking towards 5e ligne, aboard HMS Bellerophon)
4
N’s carriage
5
N’s mobile household camp in 1812
6
Imperial household
7
Imperial family
8
Massena in carriage with staff
9
N’s meetings (e.g. Alexander at Tilsit; Frederick & Louise, Marie Louise, marshals prior to first abdication)
10
Full set of Marshals of the Empire mounted and on foot
11
Chasseurs à pied in full dress (also good for Dutch guard, Westphalian grenadier guard and Italian carabinier guard/velites)
12
Guard chasseurs à cheval in full dress
13
Empress dragoons (both types of chabraque)
14
Gendarmes d’Élite
15
Middle and Young guard infantry in full dress (esp. gaiters)
16
Guard marins in full and campaign dress
17
Éclaireurs of the guard (three uniform types)
18
Flanqueur grenadier/chasseur
19
Gendarmes d’Ordonnance
20
Gardes d’Honneur
21
Lithuanian tartars
22
Guard engineers
23
Guard infantry casualties (various)
24
Infantry casualties (various)
25
Guard cavalry horse-holders and dismounted
26
Guard cavalry casualties
27
Cavalry horse-holders and dismounted
28
Cavalry casualties
29
Line infantry in full dress (esp. gaiters), marching
30
Line infantry in full dress (esp. gaiters), action
31
Line infantry in full dress (esp. gaiters), command
32
Infantry in greatcoat, marching
33
Infantry in greatcoat, action
34
Infantry in greatcoat, command
35
Infantry on campaign (covered shako, trousers w/patches), marching
36
Infantry on campaign (covered shako, trousers w/patches), action
37
Infantry on campaign (covered shako, trousers w/patches), 
command
38
Hussars (late uniform)
39
Legion de dromedaires
40
Tirailleurs du Po/Corses (cartridge pouch on front)
41
Swiss inf (especially 3rd with off-set plume/pom-pom)
42
Portuguese legion (inf and cav mixed)
Bavaria
43
Guard grenadiers (also good for Würtemmberg, Baden)
44
Dragoons
Württemberg
5
Mounted jäger
46
Chevau-légers
47
Royal cavalry (various)
Westphalia
48
Chevau-légers lanciers
49
Chasseur carabinier / Guard chasseur 
50
King’s regiment infantry (braided lapels)
Poland
51
Infantry (MAC set)
52
Infantry in greatcoat/on campaign
53
Chasseurs à cheval (distinctive stripe and turnbacks)
54
Hussars (distinctive plume)
55
Krakus
Saxony
56
Chevau-légers
57
Infantry Saxon dutchies (various)
Hesse-Darmstadt
58
Chevau-légers
59
Gardes du Corps
Northern Italy
60
Guards of Honour
61
Chasseurs à cheval (distinctive braiding)
Other allied
63
Baden infantry in helmet
64
Baden dragoon
65
Early Lippe-Detmold
66
Schwarzberg / Oldenberg / Anhalt infantry (non-French uniform)
Austria
67
Francis I, generals and staff (mounted/dismounted)
68
Hussars
69
Infantry casualties (various)
70
Cavalry horse-holders and dismounted
71
Cavalry casualties
72
Artillery in helmet
73
Engineers
74
Early uniform chevau-légers
75
Late uniform cuirassiers
76
Pre-1805 infantry (helmet) marching
77
Pre-1805 infantry (helmet) action
78
Pre-1805 infantry (helmet) command
79
German infantry (helmet) marching
80
German infantry (helmet) action
81
German infantry (helmet) command
82
German infantry (shako) marching
83
German infantry (shako) action
84
German infantry (shako) command
85
Hungarian infantry (helmet) marching
86
Hungarian infantry (helmet) action
87
Hungarian infantry (helmet) command
88
Hungarian infantry (shako) marching
89
Hungarian infantry (shako) action
90
Hungarian infantry (shako) command
91
Infantry in greatcoat (helmet) MAC set
92
Infantry in greatcoat (shako) MAC set
93
Grenadiers in greatcoat MAC set
Russia
94
Alexander and generals (full set)
95
Staff officers
96
Early Russian infantry command
97
Infantry in greatcoat, marching
98
Infantry in greatcoat, action
99
Infantry in greatcoat, command
100
Dismounted cossacks
 

Wednesday, 11 April 2012

Figure Preparation


The five Ps: prior preparation prevents poor performance is commonly spoken about with regard to delivering a presentation or making a speech, but I reckon this can also be applied to painting figures. I am sure that every wargamer and modeller has his own approach to preparing and painting figures, gleaned from various sources, mixed with experience and turned into almost a ritual habit. In this post I’ll outline the steps that I take in preparing figures for painting. 
1. Removal from the sprue
This part of my procedure has little changed in over 30 years. I take a sharp modelling knife and cut figures from the sprue; occasionally using the variation of twisting the figure off the sprue and then using the modelling knife to trim off any excess lumps left on the stands, arms or the like. Larger pieces of flashing are also removed with said knife (Photo 1 and 2).

Photo 1 and 2: Figures ready for washing. Note scraps of plastic that were removed with a modelling knife and bearskins glued on in place of shakos to make grenadier companies. I prefer to swap headgear rather than heads. Selleys plastic glue is used to fasten them to the figure.
2. Removal of flashing
I used to attempt this using only the modelling knife, but recently found this marvellous suggestion of using a heated paperclip on the Hat website. It is a brilliant idea that works perfectly; don’t make the clip too hot though as that plastic has a low melting point!
3. Washing
This is the most important step and once again is one that I have not changed in over 30 years. Having removed any pieces of sprue and flashing, the figures are placed into a tub of warm, soapy water (dishwashing liquid) and then thoroughly cleaned, one at a time, using an old toothbrush (Photo 3). This is a fairly slow procedure, but must be done well to remove any grease or oil remaining from the mould and thus create a clean surface for painting. After washing, the figures are rinsed in a tub of warm, clean water and placed on paper towel to dry.
Photo 3: Bath time: the key to good preparation in my book
I use a tub for the washing after nearly losing figures down the drain in the past!
4. Mounting on painting stands
Once the figures are dry I mount them on stands for painting. Some are glued in position on what will be the unit’s movement base (only one figure per base though to enable all sides of the figure to be accessed easily and completely). Others are stuck onto ‘painting stands’ made of cardboard or ‘popsticks’, using blu-tack (Photo 4). The painting stand enables manipulation of the figure so that the wet paint is not handled. I have noticed that some people use pins to secure cavalrymen to a painting stand. This seems like a good idea, but I am happy to use a dob of blu-tack for each foot, even though this always necessitates re-painting of the figure’s boots once it is mounted on the horse.
Photo 4: Figures after washing and drying are mounted on bases or painting stands and sprayed with workable fixative. Note the addition of plumes on the grenadier and some voltigeur figures. The plumes are made from Miliput or Das putty and glued on with PVA glue.
5. Apply workable fixative
Serendipity is a wonderful thing. I bought a can of workable fixative by accident when I meant to buy spray varnish. Having bought the stuff, I read up on what it is for. I now spray the figures with it after washing and before undercoating (Photo 4). It seems to provide a better surface for painting and replaces the PVA ‘wash’ that some people use. I suggest strongly that this is an outside job!
7. Undercoating
Why didn’t we know about this as kids? It was not until my early 20s that a wargaming colleague told me about undercoating. What a difference it made. I originally undercoated my figures in white, but then, after further discussions and experimentation, change to black—even for predominantly white uniformed figures such as Austrians or Westphalians. About three years ago I was introduced to the joys of Payne’s Grey after a discussion about hobbies and painting with a work colleague. This is the “cat’s guts” (Photo 5). The website of a figure painter named Mike describes the use of Payne’s grey undercoat as his ‘secret ingredient’ and I reckon he is right. It is a perfect shade for undercoating, leaving dark patches in shading and along lines, but with a subtle brightness to them that is is just not possible with black. It can also be used for a final wash too.
Photo 5: Figures undercoated with Payne's Grey. The figures in the background with the base coat applied are the Garde de Paris. These are now 7/8th completed and took part in the Battle of Nehrung.
8. Base colours
Like most people, I begin painting with the colour that is the main one for that figure, moving on to the next two or three main colours before painting flesh, then musket, lance or sword, followed by detail such as buttons, badges and metal bands on muskets (Photo 5). Lastly is the various bits of touching up that are always necessary to get the figure to the highest standard that I can achieve; not a great paint job, but serviceable.


After painting and basing are complete I varnish the figures with a spray matt varnish.
Since the late 80s, I have used only acrylic paints. The quality of these has improved progressively over that period of time. They are far easier to blend and mix than enamels and I do not miss the smell of turps and painful wash-up procedure one bit! Having been through a ‘metal phase’ in the late C20th, I wondered how the acrylics would go on plastic figures. Whether it is the above procedure, the quality of the paints or just because..., I find that the paint adheres to the figures without a problem and, once varnished, there is little loss of paint. In fact. I reckon that less paint comes off plastic figures than with metal figures due to being handled (and occasionally dropped) during a wargame.
So, that is my procedure, for what it is worth. I’m always keen to pick up new ideas, so please let me know what tricks you use when painting your figures.